Leadville: A Look Back

After Abe Lee discovered gold (in April 1860) near the site of present-day Leadville, Colorado, he and is group staked nearly all of California Gulch with "speculative claims." They did so in an effort to grab any property that might be potentially profitable. But the plan did not work. New prospectors demanded a miners' meeting, from which arose the official "Bylaws of California Mining District, California Gulch, Arkansas River." These bylaws, adopted on May 12, 1860, established provisions as to the number, size and type of claims that could be filed. Fair laws invited more newcomers. By mid-summer, 5,000 people with tents and wagons were scattered from one end of the gulch to the other.Among the earliest arrivals to the region that spring were Horace Austin Warner Tabor and his wife, Augusta. H.A.W. Tabor, who was to become a pillar in the development of Leadville, arrived at California Gulch during a food shortage. He sacrificed his oxen so that hungry miners could eat. By doing so, he immediately became the friend of many. Augusta established a little store where she sold her baked goods and provided meals. Like most of the men, Horace prospected the surrounding hills. He only did so, however, for a short time. California Gulch yielded more than $5 million in gold during the next five years. By 1866, however, the placer gold was gone and most of the miners had packed up and left. Charles J. Mullen and Cooper Smith, who were grubstaked by a Philadelphian named J. Marshall Paul, found a new, rich lode at the Printer Boy Mine in 1868. It was the first underground gold mine in the Leadville area and marked the transition from surface mining to underground hard rock mining. Its discovery created a new but modest flurry of activity. Heavy black sand covered the region and made gold mining difficult. In 1875 William Stevens and Alvinus Wood decided to have the sand assayed. They discovered that it contained 15 ounces per ton of silver and was rich in carbonate. Stevens and Wood kept their find a secret for nearly two years. When the word spread in late 1877, the silver boom was on. In 1878 prospectors, merchants and others trickled into town from all directions. Dr. David H. Dougan closed his office. in Alma, crossed Mosquito Pass and set up shop in Leadville. Nobody seemed to need a doctor, however, and Dougan sat in his office for 28 days without a customer. On the 29th day he received word that there had been a mining accident and he was needed immediately. -That was the begin¬ning of his illustrious career in Leadville. Dougan was a successful physician, became mayor in 1881 and was later president of the Carbonate National Bank. Leadville was a simple community of log structures in 1878. By June of the following year, however, it had blossomed considerably. According to Cass Carpenter, as of May 1,1879, Leadville had "...19 hotels, 41 lodging houses, 82 drinking saloons, 38 restaurants, 13 wholesale liquor houses, 10 lumber yards, 7 smelting and reduction works, 2 sampling works for testing ores, 12 blacksmith shops, 6 livery stables, 6 jewelry stores, 3 undertakers and 21 gambling houses where all sorts of games are played as openly as the Sunday School sermon is conducted." Additionally, there were 36 brothels. When George E. King and other architects arrived, Leadville took on an air of elegance and sophistication. In sharp contrast to some of the Victorian-style, gingerbread-laced homes in Leadville, its suburbs were comprised of many tenement shacks and plain cabins mixed with a few commercial buildings, many mines and smelters. Mines sprinkled the area east of Leadville like pepper from a pepper shaker. Wherever there was a cluster of mines, a camp usually sprang up. Most were very close together. South of Leadville the giant Arkansas Valley lead smelter sprawled out between Stringtown and Bucktown in an area known as Smelter Valley. Founded in 1879 as the Billing and Eilers Smelter, the Arkansas Valley plant was operated by the American Smelting and Refining Company. Several other smelters operated in the vicin¬ity. In April 1878, Horace Tabor grubstaked prospectors August Rische and George Hook. For $64 worth of supplies and tools, he was guaranteed a one-third interest in their findings. Rische and Hook discovered the Little Pittsburg (often spelled Pittsburgh) Mine and made Tabor an instant millionaire. Tabor once purchased a "salted" mine, the Chrysolite; but instead of considering it a bad deal, he further developed the property and struck rich silver ore. Later, Tabor purchased the Matchless Mine for $117,000, possibly the only investment he made without partners. During its peak years, the Matchless yielded $1 million worth